Monday, October 14, 2024

Endearing Encounters...with the Four-Legged Kind

Sunday, October 6, 2024

Company and conversation were lively yesterday, Saturday 5th, here at the Rio Rancho, NM home of Evelyn and David, my sister and brother-in-law. Monty, the 10-year-old Havanese dog that Evelyn and David had been caring for, was one happy boy today!

Having arrived here last Friday afternoon, I woke up to a pleasant [Saturday] morning of coffee and muffins with Ev and David. The annual hot air balloon festival was going on in Albuquerque and, despite the morning haze, we could see a few balloons in the distance.

Around mid-morning [still on Saturday, yesterday], I got to work on my laptop, aiming to finish Blog #4 and publish it on my blogsite before Monty’s owners arrived later in the day. I managed to achieve that just in the nick of time!

Lesley and Mike, both in their 70s, are British, as is David. Evelyn had previously told me that their accents, once they talk amongst themselves, are rather difficult for her to follow. Lesley, I could lipread a little bit. Mike, not at all! Nevertheless, it was a fun evening – together, Lesley and Ev prepared a British snack called “Sausage Rolls,” which turned out to be very good! Ev also made a beef stew for dinner, and that was very good, too!

Conversation was, as I said, lively and also very interesting. Since I often have trouble lipreading David as well, his efforts at fingerspelling words to me, have improved significantly. He fingerspelled bits and pieces of the conversation as the evening went on and Ev, an excellent ASL signer herself, interpreted most everything else. Soon as I felt ready to go to bed, I took a few minutes to send off my Blog #4 via email, then said my goodnights.

Today – Sunday – we had more coffee/muffins and then Lesley, Mike, and Monty left for the drive back to their home in Prescott, AZ. Around 10:30 am, I said my goodbyes to Ev and David and headed out for the three-hour drive on I-25S to Caballo, NM.

As far as interstates go, today’s drive on I-25 was OK. It was a straightforward southern route through a mostly desert landscape. I arrived around 2:30 pm at the Caballo Lake State Park, in Caballo. Since the lake was to the east of my campsite, today’s sunset was behind me. I took the pictures below at different times –

Caballo Lake, 2:45 pm…

6:26 pm…

6:39 pm

This is my final night, of this truck camper trip, in New Mexico. Tomorrow, I cross into Arizona…and gain an hour!

Monday, October 7, 2024

Anticipating a four-hour drive today, I left Caballo Lake State Park at 9:30 am (8:30 am Arizona time). I drove on I-25S for a few miles and then connected to Rt. 26W to Deming, NM. Getting gas there I then got on I-10W towards Benson, AZ. Having driven on the I-10 interstate a number of times before, I expected to see the usual desert scenery, the gradual appearance of assorted cacti, and the repetitive “what-to-do-in-a-dust-storm” alert signs in New Mexico.

At Benson, I followed printed directions, and the GPS, to the Harvest Host “Forever Home Donkey Rescue & Sanctuary,” which is located within a rural mountainous area, about 13 miles north of downtown Benson. Veering off the comfortable familiarity and ease of I-10, and driving along on the paved two lanes of Pomerene and Cascabel Roads, I soon turned into a narrow dirt road for the rest of the way. Because of the washes within this region, there were a good number of dips in the road and “Do Not Enter When Flooded” warning signs. Monsoon season in Arizona ended in September, so thank goodness for that!

Road to the sanctuary.

A wash at the left.


Turning into the dirt road.


Getting there…

Since there are free-roaming donkeys on this property, the sign on the gate, when I arrived, instructed me to open and then close/latch the gate after entry. I did that, looked around the dirt area for a spot to park, made my selection near some trees, set up the camper (no hookups provided here) and called my spot “home.” Retrieving my camp chair from the truck, I sat outside to wait for the host to come and greet me. After waiting for a while, I decided to walk up to several of the nearby structures and see if I might get somebody’s attention. I walked by and stopped to visit the “Rainbow Bridge” burial grounds and read the markers placed there. [I learned later that deceased donkeys are indeed buried here on the property; they use a backhoe to dig out deep graves.]

Burial grounds.

A memorial plaque…


Another…

Not wanting to venture too much further, I went back to my camper…and waited. I did see a couple of donkeys…and donkey dung, a lot of which was close to my camper.

Eventually, Suzanne Velasquez, the director of this sanctuary, came by and apologized that she didn’t see me until just now. She gave me their informative materials, pointed out where the donkeys’ pens were, told me to walk around freely, the evening feeding time is around 4:00 pm. And then, while we were talking, the owners – John and Tish Hiestand – arrived and were making their way through the gate. So, I’ve now met the folks who run this place and care for the donkeys.

During my stay, I learned a great deal about the donkeys who reside at this sanctuary. When I finally approached the pens, just before the evening feeding time, several donkeys came right up to me. To keep flies away from their eyes, they had on “fly masks.” One donkey in particular (name: Muchacho) took a special interest in me…or maybe it was my iPhone, which, in my hand, probably looked edible. He kept butting into me, prompting me to pet him every time...not that I minded!

Muchacho.

Curious, and a bit wary, too.


Muchacho, butting into me!


Different sizes.


Handsome, even up close!


Muchacho, again!


The donkeys love the attention…and the gentle touch.


Evening feeding.

Suzanne, tossing the hay.

The things I learned –

* Established by John and Tish, the sanctuary became an ALL VOLUNTEER 501(c)(3) Nonprofit in 2020. This is their website - www.foreverhomedonkeyrescue.com.

* The donkeys are all rescues. They had been abused, neglected, no longer wanted.

* As of my visit, there are 32 donkeys living out their lives here. Six are female. All are “fixed.” No breeding is done here.

* The donkeys are of different ages. Some arrived with injuries. Some require specific medications and foods over their lifetimes.

* There are size differences, too – Miniature, Standard, Large Standard, and Mammoth. Suzanne introduced me to a Mammoth donkey. He was, she said, 56” high at the shoulder. By comparison, I’m 60” tall.

* Some of the donkeys in their care died naturally – age, disease. Others arrived with severe injuries that couldn’t be treated humanely. They were euthanized.

* The organization has foster and adoption programs. Potential owners are carefully evaluated and scrutinized. Some donkeys are transferred to other sanctuaries if space is an issue at this sanctuary.

Watching John (age 84) and Tish (age 81) do the physical work of caring for these donkeys – luring them with carrots into their pens, filling their buckets with feed and hay, preparing their medications -- I asked Suzanne about the future. She said that the organization, being a non-profit, has a board of directors; she is personally committed and dedicated to the donkeys, she lives on the property, as do John and Tish; she will take over when John/Tish are no longer able to.

Suzanne let me know that around 9:00 pm the donkeys would be let out of their pens and are free to roam around the fenced property. Since my camper is right there in the open, I might have visitors, she said. With no shore power available, I decided to leave my camper’s interior lights off and turn on the exterior docking lights (powered by the camper’s batteries). Those exterior lights enabled me to see the ground outside both my dinette windows and the rear door. Aware of other critters that live around these rugged environs -- coyotes, javelinas, rattlesnakes – I stayed inside the camper and, not seeing anything out the windows, went to bed at 9:30 pm.

Panoramic photo of the sunset.

Tuesday, October 8, 2024

Up with the sunrise, I looked out the rear door and swore to myself that those hoof prints on the dirt around the camper were not there yesterday. “Is that fresh dung over there, too?” – I wondered. Ohhh, them donkeys – it’s so easy to become enamored with them! Those sweet souls, they are funny, smart, personable, endearing…and while their trauma is forever seared in their memories, they are also a true lesson in forgiveness.

Around 7:00 am, a husband-wife volunteer couple – Mike and Kim – arrived. Everybody was rounding up and coaxing the donkeys into their pens…including me. John gave me a carrot and Kim gave me an “animal cracker” cookie. “Just hold out your palm,” Kim said, “…and lead your donkey into his pen.” The feel of that muzzle, gently searching for the treats was…well, gentle and soft...and, without question, appreciative, too.

I spent that morning visiting all of the donkeys while they waited for their hay and feed. Mike assisted with the morning feeding and Kim focused on cleaning the water buckets in all 32 pens. That job took her pretty much all morning -- she was still at it when I later said good-bye to her. Just before I left at around 10:30 am, I purchased some clothing items from their gift shop and also left a donation check.

This is one impatient donkey! He brays while waiting for the hay cart to come around to his pen.

And this one is being very patient!


The volunteers, Kim and Mike.


This is Jasper. I had mentioned that the eyes are my favorite facial feature. Kim took off his fly mask so I could see his eyes.   


I didn’t ask what Cisco’s story is. It is reassuring to know – not only for me but for Cisco, too – that he is safe and much loved...right here, right now.


Returning to Benson, I got some lunch and then after about five miles on I-10W I took Rt. 90S towards Sierra Vista, AZ. Per the directions, I then got on Rt. 92E and, spotting the sign, turned into a rough farm/ranch dirt road to another Harvest Host location – “Double G Alpacas.” This is my 8th Harvest Host overnight stay since I became a member in 2022, and my last one of this truck camper trip.

My 2:00 pm arrival was pretty much a repeat of yesterday – park and wait for the host to greet me. Again, I walked around, hoping someone would notice me. Again, seeing four-legged mammals, I strolled over to take a look, but, again, didn’t venture too far. Best to heed the host’s instructions to wait for the tour that they will give me. Within the fenced area, I did see a small gathering of alpacas who were watching me with interest; three male angora goats, who were sort of interested in my presence; and two sleeping dogs who showed zero interest in me. There was also a nearby coop with chickens of assorted colors.

The three male Anorga Goats, kept separate from the females.

My first glimpse of Alpacas. They watched me move about. The dog wasn't interested.

Finally, LeRoy, the owner/host approached and after confirming that I was with Harvest Host, he then showed me where I could set up my camper (again, no hookups). I did that and then met up with him later for the tour. Little did I know, having never seen alpacas before, much less touched them, I was in for quite an education! And, bless his heart, LeRoy used the speech-to-text feature on his mobile device to tell me all about the alpacas and answer my many questions. He forwarded that thread to my email and agreed that I could quote his comments for my blog. His comments are provided below in italics (with some editing corrections due to speech mispronouncing). [Note: The comments in blue brackets are mine.]

Alpacas naturally do not bite. Alpacas do not like their heads being touched. You can pet their lower neck or back. Just not on the head.

We breed and show our Alpacas. We are trying to make a name for ourselves nationally so that we can sell the offspring.

Llamas are much taller and weigh about four hundred - 600 pounds. Llamas are pack animals like horses.

Are fiber animals like sheep; We process their hair and make yarn.

No hoof, their feet are like a dog's paw. They walk on a pad. Humming [LeRoy’s reply to my question about sounds they make.] No teeth on top, only bottom teeth. Alpacas have 3 stomachs.

There is no season for alpacas. We can breed them any time. Like humans. The gestation is three hundred and fifty-five days...11.5 months.

All camelids spit however alpacas are least likely to spit at humans; Not like llamas. Or camels.

They are very very gentle. She [LeRoy’s mother] can go inside [their pens]. I can go inside. It’s not a problem insurance will not allow us to let every [other people in.]

[We] separate them by temperament; Every pen has an alpha; You have 2 alphas together, they fight all day.

I would like to point out the Gray one with the all-white face. His name is Man of Steel. He has eight first place ribbons and is a three-time champion. Every time the first-place ribbon, we can charge more for the alpaca. [Pertaining to stud service.]

Judging is confirmation and fiber quality. Similar to dog shows. The judges do touch them, but they don't care if they have hay on them, it's okay.

Because they have control of their bowels, it is possible to train an alpaca, house train.

They are a very smart animal and you can train them like a dog. They all go in one spot and we collect…And it's very very good for your garden. [Noticing neat piles of their poop, I asked about that; suggest readers Google for pictures of alpaca poop.]

We have had alpacas for twelve years but as a business about seven years. I'm giving you a tour today same as I would a group.

When they lay down with their legs under them, we call it cushing.

They know when they're pregnant because they will not let the male mount them after they are pregnant. It's very difficult to determine when they're pregnant… [I was asking how they know if an alpaca is pregnant, if there are obvious signs with their belly, their teats…]

We determine the breeding and we can calculate the day they will be due. [I asked how they know which male fathered which baby.]

We processed the fiber and turned it into yarn if you like I'll give you a demonstration.

Normally takes about thirty minutes but because of the language maybe longer. [This comment from LeRoy made me laugh!] We will go to the studio for the demo.

The goats are angora goats. We shear them twice a year and use their fiber to make yarn. The fiber is called mohair. We have 12 acres total. We have eight acres fenced in on this side of the street and four acres across the street.

At our first pen, LeRoy called this alpaca over to greet me. As she came straight towards me, I stared at her…she was so gorgeous! She immediately made eye contact with me.

I initially thought she was eating a blade of grass. She was playing with it, LeRoy said.


Another beauty – long neck and all! They all have names but I’m not remembering them.

The feet – just like a dog’s paws. LeRoy said he does not hear them when they walk. That prompted me to ask what sounds they make. They hum, he said.


A cat (Milo, because of the “M” marking on his head) and an alpaca. Our 4-legged friends are often a lesson in tolerance and acceptance of each other.


Earlier, Martha, LeRoy’s mother had been filling up the water buckets around the pens. That was her job, she said. On the way to the studio for the demo, she came by in her golf cart and gave me three small potatoes and two tomatoes. “She gets food from a food bank so she's sharing it with you today,” LeRoy said. We got to talking about her role with “Double G Alpacas” and she told me how much she loved what they were doing here, using the correct ASL sign for “love” – the arms crossed over the chest. I looked at Martha and made a comment about how that sign is exactly right. Oh, my gosh, the look on her face – the memories and emotions were obvious -- she smiled and told me that she used to work at the Deaf School in Illinois. Her husband, too, LeRoy’s father, who is no longer with us. I told her I went to the Indiana School for the Deaf and I remember the football and basketball games we played against that “other ISD team.” Martha nodded and I thought to myself – “What a small, small, small world we live in!”

That was a fascinating “alpacas tour” and I very much appreciated the opportunity to learn so much about this species. They have such beautiful faces. They look right at you, eye to eye, with curiosity, interest, and intelligence. Their fiber (or fleece) is soft, so soft, and I had to press down a little bit to finally feel the surface of their skin. LeRoy said they will shear that fiber (sheep produce wool) – in the spring. From the fiber they collect, they implement a process to make yarn.

LeRoy took me over to the studio. Martha hung out with us there and I soon met Paula, LeRoy’s wife. There I learned that LeRoy’s last name is German and the “Double G” refers to his parents (“German and German”). When they started this business, it became confusing when people thought the alpacas were from Germany. “Double G” was the solution and the family business is still going strong -- their breeding program, stud service, alpaca shows, art shows, and sales of their hand-made products. Their website: DoubleGAlpacasAz.com. Check out their video – it’s captioned.

For the “yarn” demo, we got off to a funny start with LeRoy’s “speech to text” approach. He decided to abandon that and start writing on my notebook – four pages worth! I’ll share his spoken comments (unedited)…

I grew up in Galesburg, Illinois, but I spent 22 years in the military and retired at fort huachuca.

So I currently work as a contractor for the army on the fort.

I'm a software developer by day Alpacas rancher at night.

I want to show you how we create yarn from alpaca hair.

We will try the best we can.

Felting during washing is very bad.

I do appreciate your patience.

This is from our garden

She is growing cotton. Cotton and seed. Different plants from different seeds.

We are getting side tracked with the… [We started laughing here because we kept veering off to other topics – the cotton, our personal backgrounds, etc.]

The pictures below correspond with what LeRoy was telling or showing me…

I’m holding the stem of an opened cotton boll. LeRoy’s wife Paula, grows cotton (LeRoy took me outside to see what the cotton bushes look like) and I could feel how sharp those hardened boll edges are. I asked Paula if she had a good supply of band aids in her house, to which she held out her bandaged fingers!   

Paula sorting out her tub of picked cotton by color.


Cotton has seeds. From that one cotton piece (bottom right), LeRoy picked out six seeds (two at bottom left).  


Here LeRoy is writing about the four steps to process alpaca fiber -- Bottom right is the shorn fiber after it has been washed. He wrote: “1st washing warm water mild soap…we use Dawn dish soap. Alpaca hair is water resistant. Also hair is hollow. If you agitate it will Felt.” The hair at the top has been separated. LeRoy wrote that “To make yarn, we need individual hair. So we need to separate the hairs. We have a tool that helps us. It’s called a picker.” 
  

LeRoy showed me the carding process (3rd step, no photo) for combing out the hairs so that they go in one direction. In this photo he is holding a piece of carded fiber. Pulling by hand creates a twist for the yarn. To go faster...


Spinning the fiber on a spinning wheel. The yarn accumulates on the bobbin.

Or, as LeRoy wrote, “People still use a drop spindle,” which is what he is holding here.


It was very dark when we left the studio. LeRoy used his mobile’s flashlight to walk me to my camper. Knowing that I’m not likely to see him tomorrow morning, I gave him a hug and thanked him for such a great day and experience.

Wednesday, October 9, 2024

I spent the morning catching up on Blog #5, my final blog of this truck camper trip. For the first time since starting this trip, because I didn’t have any shore power hookup here, I activated the generator to recharge both my laptop and iPhone. Before leaving, around late morning, I took one last look at some of the alpacas and left an envelope with a $30.00 donation near the front door. Then, going back the way I came, I got on I-10W towards Tucson, AZ. The one excitement with that drive was approaching the Border Patrol checkpoint on Rt. 90N. They waved me through.

I soon arrived and got my camper set up at Catalina State Park, located just outside of Tucson. Settling in to do more work on the laptop, I found it necessary to turn on the air conditioning. It was that hot here! Sitting outside later, just as the sun set, I watched the flitting behavior of some birds in the darkening sky. Bats, maybe?

Thursday, October 10, 2024

I had visitors today! Being the solo traveler that I am, it is rare for me to have folks come visit me at my camper...and/or for me to visit anybody on my travels.

Pre-arranged some time ago, I invited my long-time friend, Kathy Fraychineaud, who lives in Tucson, to come by my camper today. She arrived around 11:15 am with Brady, her little 11-year-old dog. A smart dog, this one…he understands most everything Kathy signs to him! We sat outside in my two camp chairs for a little while and then hopped in her car to go to lunch at a nearby breakfast/brunch restaurant.

Back at the camper, we continued our visit outside. Since Kathy used to do a lot of camping herself back in the day, she was interested in some of my camper’s functions, including -- since I complain about it so much! -- the “tank dumping” part. I was telling her about the “camper design” for this process and how the angle of the sewer’s outlet differs from the designed outlets for trailers, fifth wheels, motorhomes. As it happened there was a Lance trailer (my camper is a Lance product, too), across the way and I decided to go over there and ask the owner if we could see what his dumping apparatus looks like. He was happy to comply and talk about it. “Jeez, the conversations we RVers have!” I thought to myself. But it’s worth it if we learn a thing or two.

The sun had set by the time Kathy and Brady left. Tonight is my last night in Arizona. 

With Kathy and Brady.

Friday, October 11, 2024

Back on I-10W, I drove for four hours through the Arizona desert to The Cove RV Resort in Blythe, CA. I’ve been here several times -- it’s perfect for the chores I have to do tomorrow morning. This time around, I selected a site overlooking the California side of the Colorado River. Being that this is my final night in the camper I started bagging my clothes, food, and other essentials.

Saturday, October 12, 2024

First thing this morning, I took a picture of the sunrise on the Colorado River...


I then proceeded with relevant “closing the camper” tasks -- drained the water from the kitchen and bathroom faucets first and then dumped the Black and Gray water tanks. This is not a process to rush through, especially since draining tanks does take time. After about 90 minutes, I was finished and decided to walk down to the river to splash cool water on my arms and face. Back on I-10W at 10:30 am I headed home to Palm Springs.

The minute I arrived home, I turned off the camper’s fridge and closed the two propane tanks. With no power source operating the fridge, it was OK for me to park on my sloped driveway for easier unloading of both the camper and truck. Taking my time with this task -– and taking frequent breaks inside my cool condo -- I was able to finish by late afternoon. Laundry is on the schedule tomorrow. The camper goes back to Galaxy Campers in Ontario, CA on Monday.

Despite the earlier issues, just as I started this trip, with both the fridge and the broken lever for the cabover vent window, I’m glad everything went so well and all my pre-planning panned out satisfactorily. It’s always good, via RV travel, to discover and learn about new things in and around our beautiful country. Animals are always a highlight. They humble me.

It’s also always good to return home!

Total days of travel - 33

Total miles traveled – 3,035

Saturday, October 5, 2024

“Turning Towards the Plains”

Sunday, September 29, 2024

I had arrived at the Raton KOA in Raton, NM around noon yesterday (Saturday 28th). As I worked on my laptop all afternoon to finish Blog #3, the sky slowly started to show signs of rain. So focused was I on my work that I didn’t immediately notice that it did start to rain. Having opened all my camper’s windows when I got here, I hustled to close them. When it stopped raining the setting sun made its appearance, right behind a huge white cloud. It was beautiful, the way the sun’s rays, from behind, gave that white cloud a bright orange glow. I wanted to, but didn’t take a picture. I was just about ready to wrap up my editing and publish Blog #3. Priorities…

Today, still here at the KOA for a second day/night, I caught up on messages, did some personal banking business, filled up my dwindling water tank with more water, checked the propane levels (one tank is approaching “empty” so I’ll be keeping an eye on the second tank) and did two loads of laundry.

Moving on tomorrow…

Monday, September 30, 2024

The Capulin Volcano National Monument was on the way to my next stop in Clayton, NM, so I went there, via Rt. 64/87E. That volcano gave me quite a workout…got my heart pumping…but it was a great visit!

An extinct volcano today, Capulin erupted about 60,000 years ago, forming a conical cone that “…rises over 1,300 feet above the plains to 8,182 feet above sea level.” I stopped at the Visitors Center to show the ranger my National Park Service Access Pass, and there I learned that vehicles over 26 feet long, including trailers, are not permitted on the road to the top of the volcano. As a unit, my truck camper is 25 feet long and 8 feet wide -- the ranger said I was good to go. Up I went, and cautiously, too, because the narrow two-lane road was winding and there were no guardrails on my upward lane. The parking area is small, enough spaces for maybe 15 vehicles, plus three spaces for RVs only. One was available for me!

The conical cone of Capulin Volcano, as I approached the entrance.

Armed with my binocs, a bottle of water, and, of course, my picture-taking iPhone, I started walking on the 0.2-mile Crater Vent Trail, which “…descends 105 feet to the bottom of the crater, the plugged vent of Capulin volcano.” The pictures below are from that walk --

The descent…

No ordinary rock, this!

The crater.

For perspective, that white speck at the top is my camper.


My next walk was on the 1-mile loop Crater Rim Trail. This trail “…skirts the rim in a series of moderate to steep ascents to the peak’s highest point – 8,182 feet – and ends with a steep descent to the parking lot.” Quite honestly, I can’t believe I managed to walk that entire rim of the crater. Truth be told, the view of the crater down below and the 360-degree views of the wide-open plains of this region of New Mexico – for as far as you can see -- are what spurred me to keep going. Going up the paved path, I had to stop often, especially on this one really steep 12% grade section. On the descent, while easier, the steepness forced me to go slow…baby steps…watching for loose stones. These pictures are from that walk – every step I took and every stop I made…for over 75 minutes...

Starting the ascent…

The plains of New Mexico.

My camper.


Abundance of rich plant life.


Ah! Now I start the downward trek…




Almost there…

Heading for Clayton on Rt. 64/87E, the 55-mile drive took me further away from the mountains and through flat grazing terrain…the High Plains of New Mexico. Clayton, according to my map, is about ten miles west of both the Oklahoma and Texas borders. I stopped for the night at Coyote Keeth’s RV Park. There is nothing special about this RV park -- no amenities other than restrooms and a fickle Wi-Fi. The location, however, is ideal for my one-night stay. My pull-through site, which I selected when I made my reservation months ago, is near a small pond. I have full hookups and, as I sat outside for a while after I arrived, I enjoyed a lovely cloud-inspired sunset display.

Sunset at my campsite in Clayton, NM.


Interesting cloud formation.

A panoramic photo of the sunset...

…which I’m appreciating, of course.

Working on my laptop during the evening, the camper started rocking. A sign that it’s pretty windy out there. Remembering that my camp chair and table were still outside, I stepped out, in the dark, and put them back in the truck. Since I don’t want to find out what strong winds could possibly do to an extended slideout, I retracted my dinette slideout back inside the camper before I went to bed. The occasional rock of the camper kept me awake for a while. It was otherwise very quiet.

Tuesday, October 1, 2024

The rocking ceased during the night but I woke up to a sunny, cold (50 degrees!), and slightly gusty morning. Except for the owner, or host, and his dogs, at their RV across from me, this 31-spaces RV park is practically empty. The big motorhome with its tow vehicle, which pulled in at a nearby site yesterday late afternoon, has left. In no hurry to leave myself and, since it’s been 10 days since I dumped the tanks, I decided to do it here this morning, in full view of…nobody.

It was approaching noon by the time I finished dumping the tanks and left Coyote Keeth’s. I got fuel and, getting my sense of direction mixed up, I was going southeast when I should have been going west. Turning back around (thank you, GPS!) I took Rt. 56W for the 55-mile leisurely drive to Abbott, NM. A beautiful cloudless day, the two-lane highway traversed through gently rolling golden grassland. Here and there were trees, mostly pine of some sort. Here and there were clusters of cows, some grazing, some resting on the grass. It was all grassland for as far as I could see…no structures, no gas stations, a lone mercantile in Gladstone, the one “town” before Abbott. At my right (north) mountain ranges were visible in the distance. I was just there, recently, around those mountains – Cimarron, Raton…

At Abbott (nothing there either), I turned south on Rt. 39 and drove through about 25 miles of the “Kiowa National Grassland.” Here the grass is green – darker here, lighter there -- and a touch of amber in many spots. From online – “The national grasslands were created by Title III of the Bankhead–Jones Farm Tenant Act of 1937, when the Great Plains was devastated by the catastrophic Dust Bowl of the 1930s and the Great Depression had left farm families destitute. The national grasslands are areas of protected and managed federal lands. They are essentially identical to national forests, except that grasslands are areas primarily consisting of prairie. The idea was to take out of production abused marginal farmland and allow it to regenerate as a means of combating the Dust Bowl.”

Around midday, I reached Roy, NM. A speck on the map, this town has had a dwindling population over the years. Driving along Richelieu Street (Rt. 39) I noted the number of various businesses that were closed and boarded up. Spotting an “OPEN” banner flapping in the breeze, I parked and walked over for a look-see. It was a restaurant – Lonita’s Café – and it was indeed open! The two ladies at the counter greeted me and right behind them was their menu board. They had tables and chairs and some antique items for sale. On the counter, under a pane of glass, was the local school’s sports schedule for this school year. Several were highlighted in yellow, indicating home games, and one of those highlights caught my eye – “NM School for the Deaf.” I pointed at that, and since the ladies already knew I was Deaf, they smiled at my exclamation of surprise. “Who usually wins?” I asked. “We do.” was the answer. The shorter of the two ladies said she grew up in Roy; the taller one started fingerspelling that she’s from Texas. I told her I was born in Corpus Christi. She fingerspelled that her son lives there. I wanted to ask why she moved to Roy, but I didn’t. When she went to prepare my take-out order, I asked the life-long resident what happened to the town. She replied that people died, others moved away for work opportunities. A school here meant families lived here…that had to be obvious. I asked where folks went for groceries. “To Las Vegas [NM], to Springer, to Logan…” -- towns that were, according to a quick look at my map, miles away. Imagine the mileage these folks rack up…

I would have loved to talk more with them – they were not busy -- but I did need to go on to my destination for tonight. I told them I was going to Ray Ranch, just off Rt. 120, right? “Yes, about two miles that way.”

Affiliated with the “Harvest Hosts” membership organization (www.harvesthosts.com), finding Ray Ranch took some doing! Having booked one night here, the owner and host of this “…5th generation working horse and cattle ranch…” provided me with a GPS link to the ranch. I also had the address – 87 Salamon Road – and the specific directions to my site for the night.

From Rt. 120, the GPS told me to turn right, so I did. I stopped right in front of a “cattle guard” that served as an entrance to Ray Ranch. I stared at that entrance for a few minutes, carrying on a hearty debate with myself. Mere inches beyond those metal bars on the ground, the dirt was deeply rutted, likely caused on a wet day by the tires of heavy machinery. I didn’t want to try to maneuver over or around those ruts, not with a camper on top of my truck! My fellow debater, which would be my other “me,” agreed with me, and we, or rather, I, decided to back up and drive a little bit further on Rt. 120. I soon saw it, this beautiful stone sign – “Ray Ranch” – and a much better gravel road entrance. I turned into that driveway, drove straight ahead, and found a closed gate. This too didn’t feel right…this entrance was just too far from where I’m supposed to be. “Hey, Mapness, just go back towards Roy and use the GPS to find Salamon Road.”

That did it! Salamon Road is a rough and bumpy mixture of broken and smashed stones, but, going slow at 5-10 mph, I was finally on the right road. There was a truck stopped up ahead, and since the driver was flashing the headlights, I thought it was a signal for me to come on over. I flashed my headlights back, but as it turned out, the driver wasn’t affiliated with the ranch. He was an employee from the area on a job assignment there. Looking at my Harvest Host directions, this nice fella – hairy arms (that I know because I squeezed his arm a few times, the better to get him to stop talking and look at me) and scruffy beard (that I know too because I reached out a coupla times to turn his jaw to me) – said I was going the right way. Pointing at some structures up ahead, he said to just cross this cattle guard and one more up ahead and I’m there.

Passing the stone homestead, I rounded a curve and found five RV sites. I chose the last one which looked a lot more level than the others. Water and 50-amp electric hookups are provided at the ranch. My camper is 30-amp but since I have a 50-amp adapter I used it to get the shore power for my fridge, lights, and laptop. Never mind Wi-Fi…my Hotspot is working out great! The camper all set up, I checked out my environs and then sat outside with my Rum/Diet Coke cocktail, recuperating from that day’s adventures. I didn’t see any livestock – this is a big ranch after all. I did watch the sun set… 

A view of the ranch through my dinette windows…



My site, behind the stone homestead.


An example of the roads throughout Ray Ranch.


My camper…looking right at home on a ranch!


Watching for the sunset…


The sunset, seen from the camper’s rear door.


Close up of the sunset.

Wednesday, October 2, 2024

I woke up at 5:00 a.m. – this 74-year-old bod needed to pee. Looking out my cabover window I could see the stars. Not very clearly, though, since I don’t go to bed with my glasses on, but I knew this was an opportunity I should not pass up. Since there was no moon, October 2 being the date of a New Moon phase, I knew the sky, being cloudless as well, would be completely dark. I put my shoes on – glasses, too -- grabbed my iPhone and stepped outside. I found the Big Dipper, the three stars in a straight line (Orion’s Belt, I think), a very bright star (Sirius?), and – although I’m really not sure – a faint hint of the Milky Way. I tried but was unable to hold my iPhone steady enough for a focused picture of the stars.

I spent the morning working on Blog #4. It was just me and this huge expanse of grazing grass. I didn’t have any visitors, not even the Ray Ranch host. The livestock must be corralled or grazing somewhere else. Probably safer for us “city slickers!” Before leaving my site, I walked over to the family homestead. Signs of children were evident in the yard but nobody was home. Doing my part as a Harvest Hosts member, I placed a $30.00 donation, sealed in an envelope with a “thank you” message, on a bench near the front door and – remembering the winds around here – weighted it down under a rock.

Returning to Roy, by the time I got back on Rt. 39S, it was 2:30 pm and I was on my way to the Conchas Lake State Park, in Conchas, NM. Rt. 39 was pretty much more of the same – grassland – but there were more signs of human activity, too. Much to my delight, I finally spotted my all-time favorite wildlife – pronghorns! I’d been hoping to see at least one on this trip and, now here, for just a fleeting moment, I saw a group of them. Beautiful specimen!

It wasn’t long before I reached the junction with Rt. 419W and got on that highway. Goodness, what a drive this was on this 48-mile narrow two-lane road! For several miles, the terrain looked exactly like Rt. 39…flat grassland. Approaching an alert sign, I was forewarned that I would be driving down a steep grade. Okay, I’ve dealt with those downhill grades many times over the years with the truck camper.

Going down my eyes widened at what I was seeing before me. It was so sudden – like somebody flicked open a curtain. I was entering the bottom of a canyon!  I was surrounded by high rocky cliffs, huge boulders, and trees everywhere. I was crossing creeks (most of them dry) and, at one point, I crossed over the Canadian River, which “…originates in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains in northeastern New Mexico and flows southeast across the Las Vegas Plains. At Conchas Lake, the river turns eastward.”

Driving through the Sabinoso Wilderness, I was running into cows! At one point, two were crossing the road – one of them taking its time about it. Their friends were on my side of the road, eyeballing me. A few miles later, just one cow, also taking its sweet time, sauntered over to my side – eyeballing me, too. From online -- “The Sabinoso Wilderness is a remote area in the northeastern portion of New Mexico. The Wilderness includes a series of high, narrow mesas surrounded by cliff-lined canyons. The rugged country primarily supports piñon pine and juniper woodlands with occasional clusters of ponderosa pine.  A perennial warm season grass savanna is found on the mesa tops. Streams periodically flow in the canyon bottoms supporting riparian vegetation including willow and cottonwood. The deep canyon area, surrounded by the wide-open New Mexico plains, is unique for this region. The deep incisions cut by Cañon Olguin, Cañon Largo, and Lagartija Creek create a striking topographical and geological contrast in this otherwise flat terrain.”

The two lanes of this highway were so narrow I practically hogged the middle of the road almost all the way. There were no vehicles behind me the whole time and only about four came from the opposite direction. It was impossible to stop for pictures – no shoulders and no turnouts anywhere on this stretch of road.

The sun was getting lower in the sky by the time I connected to Rts. 104E and 432N towards Conchas Lake State Park. Arriving at the Visitor Center, the door was locked and the sign on the window said they closed at 5:00 pm. By my Apple iWatch, which is supposed to never be wrong, it was 4:50 pm. Muttering to myself, “It ain’t five o’clock yet!” I peered through the window, saw a figure in the darkened space, and knocked on the door…twice. Somebody might have hollered a response, but how am I supposed to know that? I had my reservation document with me, which did include the name of my reserved campground and site number, but I wanted a map of the state park. This is a large lake here -- “Conchas Lake is a 25-mile (40 km) long reservoir in northeastern New Mexico, behind Conchas Dam on the Canadian River. The lake has an elevation of 4,200 feet (1,300 meters) and a surface area of 9,600 acres. Conchas Dam was completed in 1939 by the United States Army Corps of Engineers.”

I returned to my truck and just as I started the motor, this ranger appeared. I looked at my watch and he looked at me, handsome youthful face full of understanding and apology. I got my map and was soon all set up at my campsite. Again, sitting outside, I watched it get darker and caught another sunset.

Conchas Lake, from the camper’s rear door.


Sunset…

Thursday, October 3, 2024

It was another windy night last night and I again retracted the slideout into the camper when I got ready for bed. The microwave clock informed me this morning that I had lost power during the night. I reset the clock and checked the fridge. All is well!

I spent the day working on Blog #4 – updating, editing, and organizing pictures. And looking out the windows…often. Ah, there’s a squirrel in the tree just outside my dinette window. “Hey, squirrel, there’s two piles of scat outside near my camper. They yours?” I actually don’t think so…those piles look too big for squirrel.

Towards late afternoon, a female ranger stopped by with a prepared note to let me know that a nearby electrical breaker was going to be repaired and I may be without power for a short while. I told her about my power outage (based on the clock this morning) but that I’ve had power since resetting the clock. It wasn’t long before she came back to let me know that the repair was done. I asked and she wrote down her name – Ciera. She smiled at my two attempts to pronounce her name (“see-ra” is how I did it). Ciera was very sweet about it and I think I caught her say “…good enough.”

After taking a brief walk around this near-empty campsite area, I sat outside, as I always like to do at this time of day. I continued to read a little bit more of the book I started back in Questa, NM. With the sunset on the horizon, I soon put the book down.

Panoramic view of Conchas Lake, earlier today.

A different sort of sunset view…

Friday, October 4, 2024

Having already packed the evening before, I left the state park around 9:45 am and headed out for the 3-hour drive, via Rt. 104W, skirting around Santa Fe on I-25S, and connecting to Rt. 550S to [my sister and brother-in-law] Evelyn and David’s house in Rio Rancho, NM. The drive today presented more of New Mexico’s enchanting scenery, especially on Rt. 140. Not knowing what I would see around the next curve or over the next bend, I was definitely granted a “last hurrah” of sorts on this road when a posted sign alerted me to a 3-mile trek up a 20-35 mph winding rocky hill (or mesa), and to watch for falling rocks, of which there was plenty on the shoulder of my lane. At the top, I found myself back on the prairie – that vast expanse of golden grass.

I arrived at Ev/David’s house shortly after 2:00 pm, made sure I’d parked on a level surface on their cul-de-sac, and quickly made myself at home. I met Monty, a 10-year-old Havanese that Ev and David had been caring for this past week. His owners, who are, like David, British, will be coming here tomorrow. It will be a full house with some interesting language challenges -- ASL between Ev and me (which David doesn’t follow), and the thick accents between David and Lesley/Mike (which Ev struggles to follow).

The day wrapped up with good conversation, a light meal/snacks, occasional “pet me” visits from Monty, and a bit of TV.

Saturday, October 5, 2024

Despite a bit of morning haze in the sky above Albuquerque, we saw some hot air balloons in that direction. Monty’s owners will be here around late afternoon. I made time to finish up this Blog #4 so I can publish it before I move on tomorrow morning. 

Evelyn, David, and me.


Evelyn, David, me...and Monty!