THE HIGHS AND LOWS OF NEW DISCOVERIES

Leaving the town of Craig, CO [on Tuesday, August 16th] by way of 40 W, I thought to myself that with Wyoming just due north and Utah just due west, northwest Colorado definitely had a “western” look, courtesy of the rugged landscape, the desert grasses and sagebrush, and all the horses everywhere.  After about 30 minutes or so, I turned right onto Rt. 318 W and drove towards an area called the Sand Wash Basin.  A map that I picked up at last night’s RV Park showed a loop drive called “Wild Horse Loop.”  Recalling a herd of wild horses that I had seen during my camper trip in Wyoming a few years ago, I decided I wanted to see free-roaming wild horses again.

Soon the sign for County Road 67 appeared and I turned right onto the dirt road.  Up ahead was a turnout where I parked to read the informative signs about the area.  In small print on the map I had picked up was a County Roads Notice that read: “Please use caution.  Road conditions can change rapidly under adverse weather conditions and a 4-wheel drive vehicle may be necessary on some roads.”  My truck is a 4x2 and the dirt road, when I examined it and stomped on it, was firmly packed.  I got going and after driving about 50 yards, my brain registered three things right away (Yay, brain power!) –

1.)    The road suddenly became narrower;

2.)    The road followed the contour of the land.  In other words, the road wasn’t developed for the convenience of vehicles;

3.)    The dirt, which really was probably sand, became softer.

I made a snap decision and told myself that wild horses – literally, the wild horses that roam within that loop drive – ain’t going to tempt me to take a chance on this drive.  I quickly turned around (luckily I could even do that!) and took Rt. 318 back to Rt. 40 W.  Certainly, I felt a little disappointed – I love horses -- but the feeling of relief at making what has got to be a smart decision was much greater!

With the day suddenly open, I decided to make the most of it by making an unplanned visit to the Dinosaur National Monument, near Dinosaur, CO.  Extending into Utah as well, this monument is quite special because dinosaur fossils were discovered here – on the Utah side.  There are two Visitor Centers so I stopped first at the one in Dinosaur to get information and inquire about campgrounds.  Oh, in addition to having the Dinosaur Quarry, where the fossils are, the Utah side is the only one with a campground for RVs.  Bearing that in mind, I established my mental timeline for the rest of the day and proceeded to just enjoy a leisurely drive on the Colorado side’s “Harpers Corner Auto Tour,” stopping at several overlooks.  I learned later, asking a ranger the next day, that the Dinosaur National Monument extends as far as it does into Colorado because of the significance of the Green and Yampa Rivers and the canyons in the area.  “Thanks to FDR,” is what the ranger said.

After the scenic auto tour, I got back on Rt. 40 for about 25 miles, crossed into Utah and made my way to that side’s temporary Visitor Center and then to the campground.  No hookups here but I’ve a great view of a rocky plateau looming above the Green River.  With the sun setting directly behind me, towards dusk I went to the river’s edge to take pictures.  And then, there it was!  I couldn’t believe it – a horse!  A beautiful brown and white – most likely a Paint Horse -- was grazing right at the river’s edge on the other side.  There’s a private ranch on that side of the river.  Maybe the horse is wild, maybe it lives on that ranch.  Corny as it may sound, and I don’t care – I felt rewarded! 

A view of some canyons along the “Harpers Corner Auto Tour,” Dinosaur National Monument, Colorado side. 



Rocky plateau above the Green River, as seen from my campsite.  Dinosaur National Monument, Utah side.

Close up of a Painted Horse grazing on the other side of the Green River.

By 8:30 a.m. the next morning [Wednesday, August 17th], still within the Utah environs of the Dinosaur National Monument, I was on my way to check out a couple of landmarks along the “Auto Tour of the Tilted Rocks.”  First stop, some 1,000 year old petroglyphs.  The next stop, the most amazing cabin and spread built and cultivated by a homesteader – a woman named Josie Bassett Morris.

Born around 1874, Josie was three years old when her parents homesteaded in an area called Brown’s Park, in Utah.  Her values for hard work and resourcefulness developed as she grew up on her parents’ homestead.  She was also strong-willed and had an independent spirit.  Married five times, she divorced four husbands (hmmm…).  In 1913, approaching age 40, her children grown, and having no money to buy property, she homesteaded again, by herself, in Cub Creek, some 40 miles from her parents’ homestead.  She built her own cabin and a chicken coop, both of which are still on the site.  She had a vegetable garden, a fruit orchard and planted trees around her cabin.  They are no longer standing, but she also had a root cellar, a tack shed, an animal shed, and an outhouse.  She had irrigation, hogs, cattle, horses, chicken.  She chopped wood, built wooden fences, and, in her later years, switched from skirts to pants (hmmm…).  She entertained friends and family, but lived alone in her cabin for 50 years.  “In December of 1963 the legendary Josie suffered a broken hip while in her cabin; she died of complications in May of 1964.”  

Except for a protective roof, very little restoration has been made to Josie’s cabin.  I walked through the cabin’s four rooms, looking for clues as to what they once were.  One had a closet, so this was most likely Josie’s bedroom.  The largest room had a fireplace and I’m sure this is where Josie entertained her guests.  The other two, I don’t know…probably the kitchen and maybe a guest or storage room.  Outside the cabin was the rest of Josie’s 160 acres.  Finding the footpath, I walked along the 0.7- mile (one way) Hog Canyon Trail through Josie’s land to the box canyon, an area encompassed by high canyon walls.  With that box canyon and her wooden fences, many of which are still standing, this is how she kept her animals corralled.  Gosh, the next time I reach for the Pledge to dust my furniture, I will do so without grumbling!  With all due respect to Gertrude and Alice, Josie is my inspiration!

Josie Bassett Morris, on her homestead with her livestock.  Photo on a display outside her cabin.  Dinosaur National Monument, Utah side.   

In this photo, Josie is 80 years old and chopping wood.  Her cabin is in the background.

 

Josie's cabin.

 

One of many wooden fence posts still standing around Josie's homestead.



I returned to the [temporary] Visitor Center and hopped on a shuttle to the Dinosaur Quarry.  Due to structural damage, the main Visitor Center, located right at that quarry, has been undergoing renovations since 2006.  They will re-open the facility in October 2011, but in the meantime, folks are prohibited from visiting the quarry on our own.  My group of 10 met up with a ranger near some rocks and she pointed out various dinosaur fossil bones protruding from the rocks.  Although she did her best to articulate clearly for me, I missed some of the specific details and missed all the questions from the other people.  She did have some diagrams of a dinosaur’s skeleton and that was helpful.

By the time the shuttle brought us back to our vehicles, I was ready to call it a day!  There’s a KOA in Vernal City, maybe 20 miles further west.  But, first, it’s time for another Clipper #3 haircut!  Passing a shopping center I spotted signage for “Great Clips,” turned into the parking lot and walked inside.  No appointment was necessary but the lady said it would be about an hour’s wait.  I said OK and she took my name.  The one seat available was next to a man who smiled and gestured I was welcome to sit there.  Next to him was his son, a young teen with Down syndrome.   The young fella and I looked at each other a few times and I gave him my “hello” smile.  After a few minutes, the Dad poked me on the shoulder and asked where I was from.  We talked for a short while and then, when he apparently felt comfortable enough, he started to fingerspell to me.  Come to find out, Hunter, his 14-year-old son, had taught some signs to the family, signs he had learned at the “special ed” school he goes to.  Gil (the father) explained that it is hard to understand Hunter’s speech, so the signs help with communication.  It didn’t take long and Hunter himself became comfortable enough to sign a little bit with me.  He did very well, too!  He got up to get his haircut and within five minutes the other stylist was ready for me.  I shook hands with Gil and he wished me a safe trip.  They soon left and when my haircut was finished, the stylist informed me that it was paid for.  Gil and Hunter, it was truly a pleasure to meet such a loving father and a sweet son…thank you both for the honor and for the haircut!

The KOA that I stayed at in Vernal City was really pricey – almost $40 -- and I couldn’t even get connected to the internet.  Thursday morning [August 18^th] I decided not to stay another day at the KOA.  My laundry, which I had planned to do today, can wait a few more days.  In the mood for bacon and eggs, I got breakfast at a local café and then got going on Rt. 40 W.

There was some road construction along the way, but this was an otherwise nice and easy drive.  The hilly landscape alternated between grassy and rugged.  Every now and then there were “Snowmobiles Xing” signs and I could just picture in my mind how lovely this very green area must look when blanketed with white snow.

The road climbed and I found myself driving through the Uinta National Forest, within the Wasatch Mountain range.  At the junction with Rt. 189 in Heber City, I turned south and soon arrived at the Deer Creek State Park.  This is my first state park in Utah and it’s great!  In addition to the reservoir off to my right, there are hills and mountain ranges all around me.  My immediate neighbors are chipmunks and they’ve been quite entertaining.

Oh, dear, now my blue chair broke!  A little piece of plastic has rendered the whole thing useless!  Fortunately, I brought along my red chair.  But, being that blue is my favorite…

The weather has been really fabulous this past week – sunny, warm, and cool.  I figured I was in for more of the same when I got up the next morning [Friday, August 19th] and ate my Corn Flakes outside, sitting on my red chair.  Utah has scenic byways, too, and I found one that was nearby – the “Nebo Loop National Scenic Byway.” 

Getting back on Rt. 189 S I drove through Provo, home of the Brigham Young University, connected to I-15 S and took the exit for Payson, where I got gas and groceries.  Following the signs for the Visitor Center, I found myself at the parking lot of the beautifully restored Romanesque-style Peteetneet School.  Named in honor of Chief Peteetneet of the Ute Tribe, the school was built in 1901 and operated from 1902 until 1924.  It is now the Peteetneet Museum and Cultural Arts Center and the Visitor Center is located inside the building as well.  

Old schools like this have special appeal to me because much of the design reminds me of my own school, the Indiana School for the Deaf.  They didn’t have information about the loop drive, but I was showing so much interest in the school that the lady assisting me offered to open some of the rooms and show me around.  I immediately accepted and pointed out to her some of the architecture and other school-related designs and items that brought home to me nostalgia for my school.

The town of Payson was founded by pioneers and the school-museum has a great display of photographs, clothing, furniture, and assorted artifacts from that time.  My guide (Fay Daniels Angus) was showing me all these framed pictures of the first settlers and when I asked her if her own family settled here, she smiled and pointed out her great-grandparents.  I took great delight in her own delight and pride in talking about her ancestors, how they came to America by boat from England and arrived here by wagon train.  I truly enjoyed visiting this school and having Fay show me around. 

Just up the road from the school, the narrow two-lane 37-mile loop drive began.  Winding and climbing through the Uinta National Forest, the drive has several overlooks where I stopped to admire the Wasatch Range, including the tallest mountain on the range – the 11,929-foot Mt. Nebo – as well as the wildflowers surrounding fir and aspen trees, some rock formations, and the valleys.  Driving along, I noticed a lot of dung on the road, some of which I recognized as cattle dung.  Matter of fact, I actually saw a couple of cows on a tree-lined embankment.  Wow, I thought, they’re really close to the road. 

Wildflowers surrounding aspen trees.  “Nebo Loop National Scenic Byway.”  

Mt. Nebo, the tallest mountain on the Wasatch Range.  “Nebo Loop National Scenic Byway.” 

 At this point in my narrative, I need to write that my emotions today ran the gamut from high to low.  When I woke up this morning and got ready for the day, some miles away, a deer was doing its thing, oblivious to the fact that today would be the last day of its life.

I was at the end of the loop drive when that deer ran from some thick foliage and hit the driver side of my camper.  It happened so fast.  I saw the deer in my outside mirror, felt the thump, and, from the passenger side mirror, saw the deer flip onto the side of the road.  I found a place to stop a little further up, got out of the truck, and just stood there.  I was stunned and asked myself what the hell had just happened.  I turned back and found the deer.  It was on its side and it was still breathing.  I cannot describe how I felt.  I turned around again, and as I did so, I saw these two cows, right there on the side of the road.  I hadn’t even seen them either when I came that way just minutes ago. 

I stopped on the road a few feet from the deer and activated my blinking lights.  I got down to the ground, put my hand on its flank, and said “I’m sorry” over and over.  I felt so helpless, I didn’t know what to do, and as I kept saying I was sorry I also said to the deer to please die, please just die.  Within a few minutes, a police car pulled up and a tall, young officer stepped out.  He quickly assessed the situation but I still needed to tell him what happened.  I told him I wanted the deer to hurry up and die and as soon as I said that, something clicked and I just knew.  The officer put his hand on his holster and said he will take care of it.  I asked him if he does this a lot and he said yes, a lot.  We walked over to my camper and I showed him where the deer had hit it.  I stayed by the camper, he walked back to the deer, and shot it.

After he shot the deer, he turned to me and I walked towards him.  As I reflect on this now, I realize that this was a moment that was exclusively ours.  It was a moment only we could share with each other.  The whole thing was so upsetting and unsettling that I started to cry and he held me for a few seconds.  Communication became difficult for me so he pulled out his pad and wrote that the deer was going to die and it was better this way.  I said I know.  He then wrote asking if I was going to be OK.  I said yes, thanked him, got back in the truck and drove off.

Still crying off and on for about 30 miles on I-15 S, I reached the exit for the Yuba State Park and got a very nice site (no hookups).  My camper’s rear door opened right out to Yuba Lake and I practically had a 180 degree view of the lake and the surrounding hills.  I tried to enjoy it, but my heart wasn’t in it.  I discovered something today.  I found out that it hurts.  Although I know it was beyond my control, it still hurts, very much so, to be the cause of a fellow creature’s death.  I hope, I sincerely hope, I never experience this again.



Yuba Lake, as seen from my camper's rear door.  Yuba State Park.



As I write this, it’s Saturday, August 20^th and I’m at the KOA in Beaver, UT.  Sleep did not come easy last night.  I got up with the sunrise, had Corn Flakes again, and got back on I-15 S for the drive to Beaver.  Along the way, and on the approach to Fillmore, I saw the sign for the “Territorial Statehouse” and decided to stop there and look around.  Built in 1851, this restored building was Utah’s first capital.  It’s now a museum and, just like the school I visited yesterday, there are many fantastic artifacts here.  I also learned a little bit about the Mormons that settled in Utah and how they envisioned having a territory of their own, called Deseret, where they could practice their religion freely and create their own laws, one of which was polygamy.  The U.S. Government quelled that effort and established the boundaries for the state we now know as Utah.      

I plan to stay here at the KOA tomorrow as well.  I got stuff to do (laundry!) and a hurting heart that needs a little more time to heal.