ZIGZAGGING MY WAY AROUND KANSAS

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 21

After I posted Blog #9 yesterday, I took stock of things within the camper and determined that I needed to do my laundry.  An extra “driving break day” was going to be good, too, so I’m still here at the KOA in Goodland, KS today.  I also made time to review my travel materials for tomorrow and the rest of the week.  There’s a few more scenic byways I want to drive on…

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 22

Bearing in mind that I’ve been on Mountain Time since arriving here in Goodland last Thursday (19^th), I made sure to be on my way by 8:15 a.m., 9:15 a.m. Central Time.  I got back on Rt. 27S, resuming the second half of my drive on the “Land and Sky Scenic Byway.”

I hadn’t been driving long – ten minutes maybe – when I saw something up ahead, maybe 100 yards away.  A deer.  No, that’s not a deer – it’s a pronghorn!  This beautiful creature was running – so gracefully it appeared to bounce on the surface – but it was running towards the road, towards my lane!  Fortunately, I was back far enough I could gradually slow down when I hit the brakes.  The pronghorn, then about 15 yards away, looked my way when it crossed the road.  That’s the closest I have ever seen a pronghorn, and I’ve seen many on my truck camper travels around Western USA.  From online - “The pronghorn is a species that occupies western and central North America. They live mainly in the grassland regions, but herds can also be found in the deserts. Pronghorns are herbivores and their diet consists of grass, vegetation, cacti, forbs, and shrubs.”  Photos of pronghorns can be viewed online.

Land and sky indeed!  This region is described as “high plains” and with nothing – scarcely any trees, no buildings, no grain silos, no farm equipment, no barns – obstructing the panoramic scene around me, all I saw, really, was green-gold grassland and a cloudless blue sky.  This awesome byway ended at Sharon Springs and, by turning east on Rt. 40, I then began the first half of my drive on the “Western Vistas Historic Byway,” from Sharon Springs to Oakley, with a round-trip stop, via Rt. 25, to Russell Springs.

As written in my Kansas Byways publication --

* “Here, in western Kansas, is the Wild, Wild West of legend, where American Indians hunted bison, pioneers trekked and rustlers roamed – all attempting to eke out a living.”

* “The region surrounding the Byway is a geologist’s and paleontologist’s paradise, punctuated with unusual rock formations and among the best fossil hunting areas in the world.”

Today’s drive didn’t reveal rock formations but my side trip to “frontier-era” Russell Springs was rather interesting.  This small farm community, back in the day of those aforementioned pioneers and rustlers, was a stagecoach stop on the Butterfield Trail.  The Butterfield Trail Museum, located in the Logan County Courthouse (built in 1887), has information and period artifacts related to Butterfield’s Overland Despatch Stagecoach Line, “…the primary passenger transportation to Denver from 1865-1869.”  The museum, much to my disappointment, was closed, “for the season,” the handwritten sign said.  Other than a man with long white hair and beard on a motorcycle, waving at me, I saw nobody else on this pleasant Sunday morning.  I walked around and took pictures –

The Logan County Courthouse, built in 1887, is now the Butterfield Trail Museum.

The courthouse, anchored by the jail on the left and my truck camper on the right.

The jail…and some old farm equipment.

The two pictures above are of the St. Francis Episcopal Church, situated directly across from the courthouse in Russell Springs.  It was a Sunday morning when I was walking around the area but, like I wrote above, I didn’t see anybody around anywhere…not even one car parked at or near this church.  Walking toward the church I then noticed the sign that said Sunday services at 4:00 p.m.  Since most Christian services that I know of are conducted in the morning I’m guessing here that the afternoon service is to accommodate the farmers and ranchers who need to tend to their livestock in the morning.  I walked up to the door, wondering if it might be unlocked.  It was!  I opened the door – quietly, I hoped – and peered in.  Finding the church empty, I walked inside, making a little noise this time to call attention to my presence.  When nobody appeared I walked further inside, to the altar, the podium, and to the small room off to the side where I assume the minister meets with visitors and/or prepares him/herself for services.  I sat down on a front row pew for a brief moment, hoping somebody would appear so I could say hello and maybe learn a thing or two about this community.  That didn’t happen so I left and walked back to my truck camper.

Returning to Rt. 40E I soon reached Oakley, KS and, turning north on Rt. 83, arrived at High Plains Camping and RV.  It was, by then around 12:30 p.m., and the office was closed.  The note on the door said that they…the husband-wife owners…don’t sit around inside the combo office/store all the time (they live upstairs, I learned later) so arrivals (like me) are instructed to call the number posted.  That I did and about 20 minutes later I was registered and assigned a site.

Cap’n Jack’s Pub is situated right on the grounds of this RV park, so I walked over there for dinner.  At first glance this is your typical pub - football on one large TV and baseball on the other…a full bar with counter and stools…high tables and booths…a pool table.  The menu had something like 10 pages, each entrée accompanied by a picture of that dish.  I was surprised to see included in the menu, mainly because this bar/eatery is smack-dab in the middle of a prairie, the assortment of seafood, fish and shellfish both.  I love Fish ‘n Chips but I ordered the ribeye – my first steak on this trip.  It was very good but at 14 oz., plus vegetables, I couldn’t finish it!  Leftovers for dinner tomorrow!

A prairie sunset, the campground at Oakley, KS.

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 23

Not having far to go today I didn’t leave the RV park until around 10:15 a.m., getting back on Rt. 83S to drive along the second half of the “Western Vistas Historic Byway.”  About 20 miles later, I turned east onto a narrow dirt road and followed the signs to Monument Rocks National Landmark – “Formed from deposits left by the Western Interior Seaway, these Cretaceous chalk formations are stunning to capture from sunrise to sunset.”  Just before I got there, seeing a RV van approaching from the direction of the rocks, I moved over a bit and stopped to let the van pass.  That driver stopped too and we both lowered our windows.  He gave me a grin and a thumbs-up, prompting me to ask if the rocks were right over there.  His reply -- “You can’t miss them!”

Won’t wonders ever cease!  Speaking of wonders, these rock formations, some of which are more than 50 feet tall, are designated “Kansas’ first national Natural Landmark and one of the 8 Wonders of Kansas.”  Truly awesome.  They look just like the rock formations so prevalent in the Southwest.  BUT here, these ancient rocks are strikingly beautiful when seen at this one exclusive spot surrounded by the grassy and agricultural landscape of the Kansas prairie.  Across the road is another section of rock formations called Little Pyramids.  I walked around, sidestepped cattle dung (the rocks are on private property), felt the texture of the rocks, and took a bunch of pictures.  Still on the dirt road – 17 miles total with several left and right turns – I reached Rt. 83, stopped at the nearby Keystone Gallery for a look around (primarily fossils) and then continued south to Rt. 95S.

On the road to Monument Rocks.

Some cows along that gravel road.

Monument Rocks…

A keyhole peek out into the prairie.

From the other side, the group of rocks called Little Pyramids.  That’s cattle dung in the foreground.

One of the rock pillars collapsed some years ago…note the jagged edge and the cluster of rock pieces. Visitors are asked not to climb these rocks. 

But we can touch them…

This visit called for a selfie with my “Bestie!”

The “BOD” stands for “Butterfield Overland Despatch” - associated with the Butterfield Trail Museum that I wanted to visit in Russell Springs yesterday.  “The Butterfield Overland Despatch trail used Monument Rocks as a landmark to guide travelers through the region.”

The marker and the rocks…

…and modern day farm equipment nearby.

Passing through chalk bluffs on the way back to the highway.

My destination was the Historic Lake Scott State Park where I had reserved a site for today and tomorrow.  On the way there I saw, just up ahead, what looked like a traffic situation.  A big truck was stopped on its lane (going north, I was going south) and I could see a couple of other vehicles that were weaving in and out of both lanes.  Approaching slowly, I saw the reason – a horse had gotten loose and the driver of the pickup truck was trying to block its path with his truck.  The horse, trotting along, and that pickup were both on the shoulder of my lane.  The big truck up ahead had obviously stopped to prevent vehicles from coming down on that lane.  I moved over to the left lane to give the pickup driver space to maneuver this chase.  The second vehicle, a car, was following closely behind, also on the shoulder of my lane.  Soon as my route was clear, I drove on…but sure do wonder and hope, of course, that the chase ended safely for everyone.

Around 1:30 p.m. I arrived at my reserved site at the Historic Lake Scott State Park.  My “reserved” tag wasn’t attached to the post and I was about to go look for the Campground Host when she herself came walking towards me, waving the orange tag all the while.  Apologizing for not having inserted the tag before now, Pam explained that she had had a “pet emergency” this morning.  I responded that it was no problem and then I asked “How’s your pet?”  Pausing for just a moment, Pam said she had to put him down…her cat.  I said I was so very sorry…I understand…I love cats, dogs, too.  We talked for a few more minutes then she went back to her motorhome and I set up my camper.

Unfortunately, the site I selected – relying best I could on the online diagram of the state park’s campground map, which didn’t include site pictures – is so-so.  While I can see some of Lake Scott through the dining windows my primary view is the restroom structure and six dumpsters.  Ah, well, you win some and lose some.

Craggy hills surrounding Lake Scott, Historic Lake Scott State Park, near Scott City, KS. 

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 24

I spent a couple of hours this morning driving around this beautiful state park, described as “Hidden within a western Kansas prairie, the park is a startling oasis of natural springs, deep wooded canyons, and craggy bluffs; A 100-acre lake, created by a dam constructed in 1930, is nestled among the picturesque hills.”  My first stop was the El Cuartelejo Indian Pueblo, the “Only Known Indian Pueblo in Kansas.” The photos below describe this pueblo…

Having previously read about a herd of bison in this area I stopped by the state park office and asked the lady there about their whereabouts.  She took me outside the office and pointed out the fence line that wound around a bluff and ended at the rear of the office.  Within that enclosure is grass and a water tank and the bison, she said, can be seen there -- when they decide they want to graze on that particular spread of grass and/or they want a drink of water from the tank.  She said there’s about 25 bison, they sometimes go down in the canyon, but she saw them in that enclosure when she arrived for work at 8:00 a.m. this morning.  Hopefully I’ll see them on my way out of the state park tomorrow morning.

Oh, a bit of “Little Miss Muffet” excitement this morning.  Before I got in the truck a nickel-size spider, attached to an invisible strand of its web, came swinging down from the visor and landed on the top of my steering wheel.  Quickly recovering from the image of that spider hanging inches from my face while I’m driving, I calmly reached for the state park brochure and whacked the spider, causing it to fall to the floor, after which I flicked it out the door.  At least, I hope I did…I looked to see where it ended up but didn’t find it…

WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 25

The morning started off with a nice sunrise.  But then, about ten minutes before I left my campsite, the entire sky became a solid blanket of gray.  I got going, stopping first at the state park office where I, with my binoculars, scanned that fenced enclosure.  Seeing no bison I headed out, turned right onto Rt. 95S, and that’s when I saw them.  Being on the highway at that point I couldn’t park anywhere, so I drove slowly (no vehicle was behind me) and looked at them.  There were maybe 10 bison and the hide on some of them, like the lady yesterday had mentioned, was white.  They’re not albino, she said, the white coloring is due to a genetic trait.  Beautiful animal.  Sad history…

Being a loop road, Rt. 95 soon re-connected with Rt. 83 and I continued south on this, the “Western Vistas Historic Byway” to its end at Scott City.  There I turned left and drove about 100 miles east on Rt. 96, then taking Rts. 183N and 4E to Hoisington, KS, my stop for tonight.  The Hoisington RV Park is actually a parking lot behind the Hoisington Recreation Center.  There are 12 spots with electricity and water, for $15.00 per night.  So far - it’s 4:30 p.m. as I write this - I’m the only RVer here.  From where I’m sitting at the table, the rec center is behind me and a wide-open grassy field is in front of me.  To my right is Rt. 4 and there’s a Dairy Queen across the road.  I’m here because Hoisington is the northern starting point for my drive tomorrow on the “Wetlands and Wildlife National Scenic Byway.”  It didn’t rain today…it’s now mostly cloudy…and it’s a little bit windy…

The “parking lot” RV Park at Hoisington, KS.

The clouds were mesmerizing at sunset.  This is the open grassy field behind my camper at 6:35 p.m., looking east.

Looking west, 6:41 p.m.

7:12 p.m.

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 26

From the Kansas Byways publication:  “The Wetlands and Wildlife National Scenic Byway is a birder’s paradise.  See all kinds of waterfowl, shorebirds, and even whooping cranes on this 77-mile stretch from Hoisington to Stafford on Kansas Highways 4 and 156.  This route includes two important wetlands – Cheyenne Bottoms and Quivira National Wildlife Refuge – and boasts 60,000 acres of wetlands.”

And this quote:  “Navigate Cheyenne Bottoms on a self-guided driving tour and abandon all your old ideas about Kansas being flat and dry.”

As crucial stopovers along this flyway for migratory birds, spring and fall are said to be the best times to see as many water bird species as possible.  For those sightings you really have to traverse deep into the refuge areas, not just drive around it…which I what I ended up deciding to do today.  Because. Weather.  The clouds last night, which so mesmerized me, today appeared to threaten rain.

From my “parking lot” site in Hoisington I had to drive on Rt. 4E for about 12 miles to connect to the byway.  Before reaching that starting point I saw the sign for “Cheyenne Bottoms” and promptly turned onto that road – a dirt road.  That’s when my slight twinge of apprehension occurred – dirt turns muddy, ya know, when it rains.

“Lemme just see what’s ahead…” I thought to myself, “…after all, that’s why I call these journeys ‘MAP’s Camper Adventures’” - with the emphasis on adventures.  Venturing slowly down the dirt road my first “adventure” was encountering a swarm of Red-winged Blackbirds.  There must have been 100 of them, both on the road and along the grassy/weedy sides.  As I slowly approached closer those birds, like the click of a switch, took to the air at the same time and parted, like the Red Sea, into two swarms.  It’s amazing how they do that…no strategizing necessary.

Spotting a backhoe up ahead (I learned later they do work on the canals throughout the refuge) I turned back to the highway, splitting up those Blackbirds again, and got on the byway.  A few miles later I stopped at the Kansas Wetland Education Center to get information.  The fellow assisting me, in reply to my inquiry, said that most of the fall migratory birds had started arriving in July, they’ve flown off and there may not be much variety in water bird species at this time.  He gave me a printed self-guided driving tour map and, yes, all those refuge roads are gravel/dirt.  Before leaving I looked around – impressive exhibit tracing the history of the land and wildlife around here, the damages the White Man caused, and today’s conservancy programs.  The exhibit included a pair of Black-Tail Prairie Dogs, my first opportunity to see them up close.

The first gravel road on my printed guide led to an observation tower and I decided to go there.  There was a deep dip in that road and a sign read “Impassable in high water.”  Right, there’s water everywhere here and rain can cause flooding.  I got up to the tower with my binoculars and scanned the wetlands around me.  The grey sky, unfortunately, took away much of the color I would have liked to see from that height.  But for one or two white egrets I didn’t see other water birds.  Deciding not to drive further on that gravel road I resumed my drive on the byway, which ended at Rt. 281.  I soon connected to Rt. 50E for the drive to South Hutchinson.  It finally did rain on that drive…just a little bit.

Red-winged Blackbirds, taking off en masse at my approach.

Black-Tail Prairie Dogs at the Kansas Wetland Education Center.

The cloudy day wasn’t helpful but this is a view from an observation tower of one of the “pools” within the Cheyenne Bottoms Wildlife Area. 

Arriving at the Lighthouse Landing RV Park and Cabins in South Hutchinson I got a site for tonight and tomorrow.  The office is actually an old one-room schoolhouse and when I made a comment about that, the lady registering me started fingerspelling “Clark County, Nebraska.”  Oh, the schoolhouse was transported here from Nebraska?  Yes, she said…the owner of this RV Park wanted it and arranged for that transport.  Just as I was about to ask the question they get all the time here, she gave me their brochure and pointed to the section: “Why a Lighthouse in the middle of Kansas you’re asking????”  This is the printed answer --

“A Lighthouse is a symbol of guidance, direction and a destination.  As pioneers moved west into the treeless prairie, they experienced a similar sensation a person has when on water with no land in sight, the tall wind driven prairie grass resembled ocean waves.  Their covered wagons also resembled small ships and therefore were called prairie schooners.  So, with that history in mind & a lighthouse still being a symbol of direction & guidance, why not a lighthouse in the middle of Kansas.”

Wow, for a water-loving Navy Brat (that would be me!) that statement is thought-provoking!  Inasmuch as I admire the pioneers for the hardship and the struggles they endured, I will always feel conflicted about the actions of the White Man – his “forked tongue” and the mindless near destruction of this country’s Native Americans and native animals, specifically the bison.  Progress was inevitable, I know that, but the gesture of respect would have been decent, moral, and honorable.  That holds true today…from all of us.

The only lighthouse I saw here is a framed photo of the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse.  But, being that this is a new RV Park in South Central Kansas, a “work in progress,” maybe the owner will install an exterior lighthouse of some sort later.  Speaking of water, however, I didn’t notice until after I set up the camper but there’s a pond directly behind my site.  And paddling right by were 20 Canadian Geese.  Checking out the restroom when I later went out to walk around, I counted six frogs in one of the stalls.  Goodness, I’ve got my very own “wildlife refuge” right here!

Canadian Geese behind my camper - “my very own wildlife refuge,” Lighthouse Landing RV Park and Cabins, South Hutchinson, KS.

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 27

I watched the sun rise this morning.  The dark clouds are gone, the sky is blue.  I scanned the pond, nice and blue and rippling a bit in the breeze.  Seeing no geese, I concluded they’ve continued on this – their migratory flyway – to the south.  Swallows, a fascinating species of bird, were flitting around above the pond early this morning, catching their breakfast of insects in the air.

I got to work on Blog #10 – this one – pausing often to gaze at the pond…and the sky.  A white egret stopped by, wading along the edge and stabbing at the water.  Around noon, having decided to stay here tomorrow as well, I went to the office to pay.  It’s almost 3:00 p.m. as I write this.  The egret is still around and I’ve seen a couple of vultures hovering in the sky – alive or dead there’s edible stuff hidden in the tall grass. Those birds won’t win a beauty contest but they sure do have a graceful way of soaring in the sky…their method of hunting.

Oh, just now a group of birds – mostly white with some gray and a touch of black - have been skimming the pond, apparently to take a drink.  Their size and coloring made me think seagull but, unlike seagulls, which will land in water and float around, these birds have been skimming the surface of the water and then immediately taking to the air.  Through my binocs I tried but was unable to determine whether these birds have webbed feet or not.  As skimmers, I’m guessing they don’t.

Did I mention I’m in the midst of my very own wildlife refuge?

Late afternoon clouds came rolling in.  Mesmerized again, I took pictures – 

Clouds above the RV Park.  The small building is the one-room schoolhouse.

The schoolhouse…the clouds…as the sun is setting…

Sun-kissed…

Sunset over the pond…

That’s me, raising a toast to the sunset, to the clouds, to the wildlife, to the birds, and to Kansas.